Ireland

Ireland. I arrived just shy of a week ago, and am already worrying that two weeks is not enough. And of course, this is true. My expectations, for friendly people, overcast chilly weather, gorgeous scenery, and delicious and abundant food, have been met. 

I decided to visit Ireland after our recent Presidential election. I, like many worldwide, do not like the trajectory of our Country. I've witnessed the events unfold with shock, as our Constitution is trampled, a war machine gears up, the protection of the environment is cast aside in favor of profits, and the most vulnerable of our Nation's residents are attacked. Perhaps Ireland could be a refuge should one be needed--a place where I could legitimately claim my roots.

I've traveled all over the world. Australia, Europe, Africa, South America, Central America, Canada, and Asia. I believe that some of us are bitten by the travel bug early in life, and I count myself as one. At age 3, I explored my city block, by 10, I had expanded to my City's downtown, by 13 or 14, it was South Carolina, and by age 17, I was traveling alone in Europe. With each journey, my mind expanded as I took in the culture of the places that I visited. It was Spain, during my summer semester abroad, that alerted me to the American obsession with material acquisitions, frequently at the expense of other values.   In Peru, there is no hunger and very little drug addiction, despite great poverty. What could Ireland teach me?

I decided to theme my visit around food and agriculture. While Ireland has not been traditionally known for its food, that has rapidly and decidedly changed. At any given point, one is never more than 75 miles from the sea with its plethora of meaty fish, shellfish and seaweed. Farms are small, on average about 30 acres, typically dotted with grazing cattle and sheep. While is true that the lack of sun limits the fresh produce, the temperate climate makes many products available year round.  

My traveling companion and I wasted little time getting started on our epicurean odyssey. We started with a late lunch at a restaurant called, The Winding Stair. Located on the second floor of a historic building overlooking the river, we had to climb a narrow staircase before entering a brightly lit room packed with Dubliners enjoying a leisurely Friday afternoon lunch. We started with a fish plate and then I did not hesitate: a grass fed beef steak. And while the food was delicious, it was our server who stole the show. He was cheerful and apologetic, informing us that the crowd was unusually large and they were down one server. No matter. His easy going manner combined with his aim to please, was all that we needed as we gazed out of the oversized windows to an overcast sky, the river rushing by, with the cheerful buildings of Dublin in the backdrop.

Later, we hit the night scene hard. Live music, whiskey and 5 bars/ pubs later, we felt we had appropriately honored Dublin's spirit. Each venue was completely different--the first, Temple Bar, is a well know, almost obligatory destination--filled to capacity with great Irish music. After that, The Auld Dubliner, a fairly traditional pub, The Bank, a gorgeous former bank with soaring ceilings and tile floors, the Front Door, and finally the perfect ending at The Liquor Rooms, a series of candlelit rooms poshly outfitted with cushy furnishings and a fabric Moroccan styled ceiling. 

But the best part of all? The people. Everywhere we went, the bars and pubs were filled with people of all ages. This was not a scene reserved for college students or scantily clad young people. Quite the contrary. It felt like everyone was joining in on the fun, including a jovial man in a wheelchair. This, it would appear, is a Country that has gotten its priorities right.